Designer and Adidas promise talks with Oaxacan
artisans after criticism over huarache-inspired shoe.
Mexico City — US fashion designer Willy Chavarria
has apologized after his Adidas “Oaxaca Slip-On” shoe was accused of cultural
appropriation for replicating a traditional Indigenous sandal design without
consulting or crediting its Oaxacan creators.
The black slip-on, modeled after the handmade
leather huaraches of the Zapotec community in Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, Oaxaca,
drew sharp criticism from Mexican officials and Indigenous artisans shortly
after its release.
At a Friday press conference, President Claudia
Sheinbaum said the incident was part of a pattern in which “big companies often
take products, ideas, and designs from Indigenous communities,” adding that her
government was reviewing legal avenues to support affected artisans.
Marina Núñez Bespalova, Mexico’s Undersecretary of
Cultural Development, condemned the shoe design publicly and confirmed that
Adidas had contacted officials to discuss restitution. “We will work to ensure
that the people who were plagiarized receive recognition and repair,” she said.
In a statement to the BBC, Chavarria expressed
remorse: “I am deeply sorry that the shoe was appropriated in this design and
not developed in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community.”
He added that the intention had been to honor Oaxaca’s “powerful cultural and
artistic spirit,” but acknowledged that the approach “falls short” of the
respect the community deserves.
Adidas also issued a formal apology, affirming it
“recognizes and values the cultural richness of Mexico’s Indigenous communities
and the meaning of their artisanal heritage.” The company stated that the
design was inspired by Villa Hidalgo Yalálag traditions and pledged to engage
in “respectful dialogue” with local artisans.
Images of the shoe have been removed from Adidas’
and Chavarria’s social media channels. The footwear was reportedly manufactured
in China, bypassing the traditional handmade production methods of huarache
artisans.
Local shoemaker Juan Aquino of Villa Hidalgo
Yalálag told reporters that such designs carry cultural and historical meaning
that cannot be separated from their community origins. “It’s not just a shoe —
it’s part of our heritage,” he said.
Fashion experts say the case underscores a growing
scrutiny of global brands accused of exploiting Indigenous designs without
credit or fair compensation. Similar disputes in recent years have involved
major fashion houses and Latin American artisans.
Chavarria, formerly Calvin Klein’s senior vice
president of design, is known for blending cultural references into his work.
Critics note that such cross-cultural design can be celebrated when done
collaboratively, but becomes exploitative when source communities are excluded
from the process.
The Mexican government has previously pressured
companies to sign agreements ensuring royalties and public acknowledgment when
using Indigenous designs. Advocates hope this controversy will lead to stronger
protections.
For now, both Adidas and Chavarria say they are
committed to repairing relations with the Zapotec community. Negotiations with
Oaxacan officials are expected to begin in the coming weeks.